BALI
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| Exquisite sculptures |
The Island of Gods as it is known, is an apt description, considering that it has around a thousand temples. Bali had always been on my wishlist. When opportunity knocked on the door, I took it and it fulfilled all my expectations and more.
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| Rice fields |
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| Rice Terraces |
Bali is an island which forms a kind of a link between Asia and Australia. The island is blessed with an abundance of nature. Volcanic mountains and mountain ranges of which Mount Agung, Mount Batur and Mount Abang are considered sacred mountains by the Balinese. Lush dense forests (the monkey forest for example), endless rice terraces and fields, Lakes (Lake Batur formed due to the complete explosion of Mount Batukaru. The crater is today filled with clear water and is a favourite spot amongst tourists and locals.The sacred Ulun Danu temple is located on its shores.). Innumerable species of flowering trees of which the champa is resplendent in a myriad of colours, the list is endless
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| Champa tree in full bloom |
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| Mount Agung |
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| Mount Batur |
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| Lake Kintamani |
I had gone with my friends for a 5 day tour and came back with wanting to go back for a longer stay. Five days just gives you an overview of Bali. To understand and experience Bali, one needs to be there for a longer period of time. If at all I get an opportunity, I would go and visit places off the tourist radar. Places which would give me a deeper understanding and knowledge of the peoples, their society, cultural and religious backgrounds.
The Past
Documents of an independent Balinese dynasty date back to the 10th century. The 13th century saw them acknowledge the sovereignty of the Javanese Singhasari dynasty. Following this a submission to the Madjapahit Kingdom. The Javanese influence remained strong up until the 16th century when an exodus of Hindus fled Java and took asylum in Bali. At the end of the 17th century, the Madjapahit empire divided the island into 9 independent principalities, until it fell into the hands of the Dutch who by the mid 19th century took full control of the governance. Finally Bali became part of Indonesia, still conserving its socio, cultural and religious characteristics.
The Present
As soon as you arrive and are being driven to the place of stay, you see sculptures lined on either side of the road. The women portraying different dance forms, the men wearing armour.
What fascinated me the most were the temples. As we travelled, there was one after every three or four houses. some without a courtyard and some within. Glimpses of them made me really curious as they were nothing in comparison to the ones seen in India. Keeping my curiosity in check, I planned the next few days with my friends and decided that I would learn more about the Balinese Hindu temples in the next few days.
The best way to go around Bali is to hire a car with preferably a driver and guide or one who is also a guide. Our driver was really good but unfortunately he was not allowed to be our guide as he was not holding a licence to be a guide. So we had to manage seeing the temples on our own and read the scant information written on the boards.
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| Arjun And Krishna on the Chariot |
Culture and Religion
The Balinese peoples are what is known as predominantly following the Hindu religion. That is to say around 93% of the population is Hindu, with Muslims, Protestants, Catholics, and Buddhists in the minority.
The temples that we saw had a central theme. They are known as Pura. Each village (Desa Adat) has three main shrines, Desa, Pura Puseh and Pura Dalem. These shrines are for the three main deities, Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva, The Trinity. The Supreme Creator of the trinity is Ida Hyang Widi. Other than these there is Pura Ulun Suwi or Pura Subak placed at the centre of the rice fields and Pura Melanting found near traditional markets and managed by traders. There are temples open to everyone, known as Kahyangan Jagat. Pura Besakih is one such temple and also the oldest and largest one. Aside of these, each hindu family has its own private temple, Pamerajan or Sanggah. This is built to honour the spirits of relatives and also the Supreme Divinity, Ida Hyang Widi. The temple always faces the sacred mountain, Mount Agung.
In front of every house, there were two identical structures on either side of the houses. At the top was a seat on which offerings of flowers and fruit were kept in a small basket and similarly at the bottom. The lower part of the structure was mostly covered in a black and white checkered cloth. I was explained that these structures were places of the protective Gods and the offerings on the top were for the Gods and the bottom ones for the demons. This ensured that peace was maintained and no harm would befall. The checkered cloth meant day and night, so the house and establishment was protected all the time. The same custom is followed everywhere, in houses, shops, temples and early morning we saw people laying these offerings with prayers and incense was burnt at the sites.
The Hindu religion is as similar to India and yet very different in Bali. The Trinity, the Supreme Divinity is the same, so are the chants in Sanskrit. Yet, I found an absence of idols which are found in Indian temples. One enters the main temple complex through the main gate. Inside there are about 3 to 4 courtyards with an open structure of wooden pillars and a decorated roof. The platform inside has a raised seat like structure. The wall behind the seat has a decorative panel carved or a painting depicting the mythology of a deity. The sthana as it is known is usually empty. The Balinese still offered their prayers and offerings. I later came to know that the deities only visit on specific days of the year. Each temple celebrates its own birthday, that is the day the temple was first consecrated. Known as the Pidolan. The ceremony lasts from one to three days if the temple belongs to a single family and between seven and eleven days for the largest temple of the area which is the temple for public worship.
The first day is the Memendak, where the spirits and the Supreme Divinity, with all his manifestations appears. They remain in the temple during all the ceremonies. The ceremonies are elegant and colourful. People come from all over, dressed in their finest, on their heads they carry gifts and offerings of flowers and fruits, artistically composed. The temple complex is decorated very elaborately and is a riot of colour and trimmings.
The ritual ends after several days with Ngeluhur, which is the return of the spirits and Ida Hyang Widi to their eternal residence in the sacred mountain.
Although the rituals are different, I found many similarities in the basic festivities of the HIndus of Bali and the Hindus of India.
The Pagodas are normally behind this structure. The outer courtyard is known as Jaban, the central, Jabah Tengah with an entrance door, Candi Bentar and then the inner courtyard the Jeoran. Each temple has its own peculiarities and specialities. One similarity in all of them is that, tourists are not allowed in the inner most sacred area but can watch the ritual from the outer courtyard. The other is the proper attire as in the legs have to be covered. Sarongs/shawls are provided at the entrance and are to be returned after visiting.
The other similarity is the tiers of the Pagodas. They refer to the different manifestations of the Ida Hyang Widi. The tiers differ in accordance to whom the Pagoda is dedicated. Hence a Pagoda with 11 tiers is for Ekadasa Rudra, 9, denotes Naaawa Sanga, 7 is Sapta Devata, 5 Pancha Devata. All represent the Trimurti.
Although the rituals are different, I found so many similarities in the basic festivities of the Hindu of Bali and thoe in India. The stories too of the Mahabharata and Ramayana are enacted through various dance forms. The Keechak, The Kris, The Topeng, all depict various stories from the Epics. Then there is the Barong dance. This is a fight between the good and evil. The Barong is a mythical creature who resembles somewhat like a lion and Rangda, the evil queen of death and who devours children. She wears a dark sinister mask with a tongue of fire. The dance is supported by an orchestra known as Gamelan. It comprises of metal and typical xylophones, flutes (rebab), and drums.
The Balinese religion has changed from being animistic, to Hindu and other religions, but their inherent love and respect for nature and all things living and non living is still very much present.
Touristy Bali
In front of every house, there were two identical structures on either side of the houses. At the top was a seat on which offerings of flowers and fruit were kept in a small basket and similarly at the bottom. The lower part of the structure was mostly covered in a black and white checkered cloth. I was explained that these structures were places of the protective Gods and the offerings on the top were for the Gods and the bottom ones for the demons. This ensured that peace was maintained and no harm would befall. The checkered cloth meant day and night, so the house and establishment was protected all the time. The same custom is followed everywhere, in houses, shops, temples and early morning we saw people laying these offerings with prayers and incense was burnt at the sites.
The Hindu religion is as similar to India and yet very different in Bali. The Trinity, the Supreme Divinity is the same, so are the chants in Sanskrit. Yet, I found an absence of idols which are found in Indian temples. One enters the main temple complex through the main gate. Inside there are about 3 to 4 courtyards with an open structure of wooden pillars and a decorated roof. The platform inside has a raised seat like structure. The wall behind the seat has a decorative panel carved or a painting depicting the mythology of a deity. The sthana as it is known is usually empty. The Balinese still offered their prayers and offerings. I later came to know that the deities only visit on specific days of the year. Each temple celebrates its own birthday, that is the day the temple was first consecrated. Known as the Pidolan. The ceremony lasts from one to three days if the temple belongs to a single family and between seven and eleven days for the largest temple of the area which is the temple for public worship.
The first day is the Memendak, where the spirits and the Supreme Divinity, with all his manifestations appears. They remain in the temple during all the ceremonies. The ceremonies are elegant and colourful. People come from all over, dressed in their finest, on their heads they carry gifts and offerings of flowers and fruits, artistically composed. The temple complex is decorated very elaborately and is a riot of colour and trimmings.
The ritual ends after several days with Ngeluhur, which is the return of the spirits and Ida Hyang Widi to their eternal residence in the sacred mountain.
Although the rituals are different, I found many similarities in the basic festivities of the HIndus of Bali and the Hindus of India.
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| Prayer Ritual |
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| Panel behind the Sthana |
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| Different Number of Tiers |
The Pagodas are normally behind this structure. The outer courtyard is known as Jaban, the central, Jabah Tengah with an entrance door, Candi Bentar and then the inner courtyard the Jeoran. Each temple has its own peculiarities and specialities. One similarity in all of them is that, tourists are not allowed in the inner most sacred area but can watch the ritual from the outer courtyard. The other is the proper attire as in the legs have to be covered. Sarongs/shawls are provided at the entrance and are to be returned after visiting.
The other similarity is the tiers of the Pagodas. They refer to the different manifestations of the Ida Hyang Widi. The tiers differ in accordance to whom the Pagoda is dedicated. Hence a Pagoda with 11 tiers is for Ekadasa Rudra, 9, denotes Naaawa Sanga, 7 is Sapta Devata, 5 Pancha Devata. All represent the Trimurti.
Although the rituals are different, I found so many similarities in the basic festivities of the Hindu of Bali and thoe in India. The stories too of the Mahabharata and Ramayana are enacted through various dance forms. The Keechak, The Kris, The Topeng, all depict various stories from the Epics. Then there is the Barong dance. This is a fight between the good and evil. The Barong is a mythical creature who resembles somewhat like a lion and Rangda, the evil queen of death and who devours children. She wears a dark sinister mask with a tongue of fire. The dance is supported by an orchestra known as Gamelan. It comprises of metal and typical xylophones, flutes (rebab), and drums.
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| Barong and Rangda |
Touristy Bali
The Balinese also have a lot more to offer. They are one of the most friendly and helpful people, I have come across. Always smiling, they make you forget the worries of the world.
Their cuisine is a mix of Indonesian, Malay and also absolutely Balinese. In the 5 days that we were there we went through the 10 most famous dishes of Bali and also others.
Pisang Goreng (Fried Bananas)
Mie Goreng (Fried noodles with vegetables and a choice of shrimp, pork or chicken)
Nasi Goreng (Fried rice instead of noodles)
Satay Ayam (chicken satay), Lilit Kan (Fish satay)
Bebe Guling (Suckling Pig)
Nasi Campur (Mixed rice)
Bebek Betuti (Duck)
Mini Rijsthafel (A rice table with a cone of white or yellow rice with an accompaniment of Bebek, chicken sambal, prawns, pork and chicken satay, sayur wap (mix Bali vegetables), potato croquettes, tempe and tofu, spring rolls. This meal can be shared as it is a lot for one person. There is also Gado Gado (veg salad with peanut sauce). The black rice pudding was absolutely delicious. Its made with black rice and coconut milk both of which are found in abundance in Bali.
Other than this we had fish and prawns, sipping on cool coconut water, as we sat on the beach with the moon shining and over looking the calm sea. The lights of Bali twinkled away in the night. The portions they serve are large and if one is not a big eater then it can be shared between two or three people.
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| Dinner at the beach |
The sunsets here are breathtaking to say the least. We reached Tanah Lot, a temple complex on the sea shore. It is famous for spectacular sunsets and early enough to find a comfortable place to experience the setting sun. It does get quite crowded! Needless to say the vision of the setting sun was completely spell binding. it was a clear evening and we were lucky to experience the ball of fire disappearing beyond the horizon. So entranced were we at this spectacle that we felt as though we heard the sizzle of the sun as it hit the waters.
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| Sunset at Tanah Lot |
Bali has a lot to offer the tourists. Aside of the Temples, the forests and the lovely beaches, there are glorious rice fields and rice terraces and quaint villages. It offers markets, full of beautiful handicrafts and paintings. The wood craft is exquisite. Sculptures made in wood of deities, animals and human figures beautifully crafted with minutest detailing. Glass objects in colour and transparent. The paintings are just lovely. We found traditional paintings, in black and white as well as in a riot of colours and also abstracts. There are art galleries where paintings are sold where artists are also sitting and working. Every market, be it in Ubud, Seminyak, Kuta or Nusa Dua has shops lined up selling paintings and art work. So much so that it gets confusing while making a choice. We found clothes there on the same lines as are found in most sea side resorts around the world, but the sarongs on display and the hats were very attractive and eye catching. Handicrafts also included masks made from wood and papier mache', of various kinds, from benign to evil, from ferocious to sublime.
It is true that the heart is never satisfied and wishes for more but trips do end and so did ours. Memories of the island will remain forever though through pictures we took and our experience in the Island of the Gods...
Closing my post with pictures of the diversity that is Bali..
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| Ulun Danu Temple |
Gate to a Temple
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| The Trinity at Goa Gajah Cave |
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| Buddhist Meditation Cave |
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| Shiva |
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| Temple Guard |
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| Garuda Vishnu |
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| Handicrafts |
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| Handicrafts |
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| Artist at work |
Photo Credits : Mohini Karkarey, Diwakar Bal.
